YOUR FIRST SCENARIO
When you first take Victory out of the box youre going to want to start
playing immediately. The Quick Start is the best way to dive in and
play take 20 units at full strength, place them on your maps, and start
fighting. But first take a moment to consider what map youll be using. For
beginners, it might be wise to pick maps 1 and 3 which leave a smaller role for
your navies. In fact, you might want to agree not to use naval units in your first
game or two. This will focus your efforts on your ground and air units and help
you learn how they interact. After a game or two you can switch to a game using
maps 2 and 4 and introduce the naval units.
Once you have played awhile you might consider what kind of game you feel like
playing and choose your maps accordingly. Map 1 doesnt have a large number
of ports - this will allow you to concentrate on land and air units. This is especially
true in a two-map game if you place it so that there are only two ports available
and open to the enemy. But depending on your opponents choice of maps it
is unlikely that you are going to be able to completely neglect your navy for
too long and stay competitive. If your opponent manages to seize your ports and
keep them full of battleships youll quickly be sunk.
On the other hand all the cities on map 2 are ports. This makes a larger navy
almost a necessity. In addition no matter how the maps are placed, your city nearest
the enemy is going to be isolated. You could concentrate on building a navy to
gain control of the seas or use that forward island as a staging point for your
own attacks. But dont forget about your flanks...
As you continue to play and expand your set with the expansion maps, you might
want to consider what kind of game you enjoy or which scenarios are most intriguing
and choose those maps accordingly. It should be noted that to create larger oceans
and individual land masses, not all the maps are 100% compatible on every edge.
For instance, maps 7-14 have some edges that are all water. This allows more interesting
map configurations but does limit the number of possibilities. With the maps included
in the basic game, however, there are 24 different basic two-map configurations
possible, and at least that many 4 map possibilities. Adding just two more expansion
maps brings the two-map configuration total to 60. This being the case, running
out of possibilities should not be a problem even with the basic set.
DOES SETUP MATTER?
Once you have decided what game and or map to play its time to start thinking
about what units to use and where to set them up. If you have a favorite style
of play you should have already considered this when choosing a scenario and/or
map. But in any case the set-up can definitely be critical to your success or
Unless the scenario states otherwise you should choose your pieces three at
a time and place them in cities and towns on your map. In a basic game (Quick
Start) you will have 20 units to place in the six cities. Since you are required
to place at least two in each city, you will have eight extra units to reinforce
your cities and towns. A good rule of thumb is to make the cities closest to the
enemy stronger they will be the first to come under attack. Garrison the
towns in your forward areas to deny the enemy airbases.
These can serve as airbases and in some cases as a source of sea supply. Putting
a unit or two in one or more of these towns could slow down an early surprise
Initially you will likely want to allocate at least two of your armor units,
backed by three or four infantry among your forward cities. Support these with
some fighters and dive bombers. Base these air units in the cities in the middle
and rear and bring them up to the front immediately on the first turn. Depending
on the maps used and the type of game you anticipate, choose at least one airborne
and one marine unit, especially if you sense from your opponents placement
that an early invasion might be appropriate.
This will leave you with four or five units to allocate to your navy. A battleship
in each of your forward ports will make an early invasion very difficult. When
combined with a submarine they make an enemy blockade very difficult to achieve.
Lastly, consider whether an aircraft carrier might be helpful. These units give
you the ability to use your fighters and dive bombers outside the range of your
The following are tips or little tricks for Victory. Just remember: after you
introduce these to your opponent, they quickly learn them, and use them against
During WWII, especially late in the war, the Allies would send huge amounts of
fighters on patrol. They first escorted the heavy bombers to the extent of the
fighters range. If they did not encounter any enemy fighters, the escorts
would drop down and seek targets of opportunity. In Victory, this is simulated
by sending two 4cv fighters into a battle hex. Unless the defender has the same
force defending, you should win air superiority in that hex. Have a second wave
prepared for the following turn as it may take several turns to command the skies.
In a recent game, one player started the game with 8 full strength regular
fighters. His opponent chose to build a balanced force of 4 fighters and 4 dive
bombers. By turn three, player B had lost all his airforce and was scrambling
to recover. Any time player B built new fighters, they were quickly destroyed.
Player A, after his initial gain, continued to ensure his fighters were everywhere
and always at full strength.
Knowing what your opponent has is an ancient axiom. It still holds true even in
games. The simplest and cheapest way to scout an opponent is to send a single
1cv bomber over the target hex.
This is exactly what every side tried to do in WWII. Planes were often sent
on long range missions to have a looksy. The heavy bomber is the best
unit for this mission. It can be based safely behind the frontline and still reach
out beyond the battles, pin units from responding, and give the commander a view
of what the opponent has in store. It is always interesting to find an invasion
force setting up, or even knowledge of the strength and types of units in the
One of the wonderful things about the block games is the ability to bluff your
opponent. This can be done several ways. Try to deceive your opponent with the
placement of blocks along a coastal hex since naval and ground units can exist
in these hexes. To continue the deception, those units must act as if they are
the opposite type. Remember army units can move out to sea. They count as a naval
target without naval firepower.
The ultimate bluff is to use many 1cv units, make them appear to be a large
force, and scare the opponent out of attacking. I was playing a four player, six
map game. I had just tried to invade across a large expanse of ocean and was defeated.
Knowing it would be some time before I could replace my losses, I was on the defensive.
Meanwhile my partner was doing well against his opponent. We secretly decided
to ship strong resource and supply blocks to his sector. Meanwhile we shipped
1cv units into my section and built as many new units as possible. I started to
assemble an invasion force of weak units. My opponent could see these
blocks and prepared a defensive force. I started to advance my force slowly across
the ocean, shuffling units and muttering under my breath. To complete the distraction,
I moved the invasion to the furthest edge of the board. My opponent
had to bring his units to meet the threat. He sent out scout planes, but my force
was spread out over many hexes and was difficult to observe. To improve upon this
deception, I should have sent a few stronger units to cover and present targets.
My partner made use of the sudden increase of his production and overwhelm his
opponent. This occurred just in time for me. My opponent, realizing the deception,
aggressively moved a large force in my direction. But it was too late. With his
ally on the run, they surrendered.
Bluffing can be risky. If your opponent discovers the deception for what it
is, it can be difficult to recover. Have a back-up plan of a defensive line and
hope it holds. Be ready to shift quickly from your position of strength.
Considering that all units are the same, with the same firepowers, same ranges
and same abilities it is hardly surprising that some games of Victory bog down.
Production, terrain, skill and the dice can even the game out.
Fortunately, Victory is very flexible and there are several easy ways to breathe
life into a stalemated game.
1. Try adding another map set to your current game. This will extend the front
and may open up the flanks for a land grab. One side will usually gain a production
advantage during the land grab and the new front may have weaknesses that can
2. Change the forces. This can be done mid-game. Each side randomly draws an
agreed number of units from the force pool and adds them to the map in supplied
positions. This can open up new options for attack and lead to a breakthrough.
3. Random Force Pool. Before beginning play, both sides draw random blocks
for units. 20 in a standard game or 40 if elites are available. These represent
the only forces available for the duration of the game. These units may be rebuilt
Variation: Increase the number of units drawn, but prohibit rebuilding of eliminated
units. That means, if a unit is destroyed or merged it is removed from the game
may not be rebuilt.
Variation 2: Randomly select one or two units, these types may then increase
all firepowers by 1. Example: Blue draws a fighter and an armor unit. All of blues
fighters now have A3, N1, and G2. His Armor units now all have A2, N1, and G3.
Red draws Heavy Bombers [A2, N2, and G3] and submarines are A1, N3, and G1. Record
each sides new abilities on a piece of paper.
An important rule change has been introduced in the second edition of the Victory
rules. To be supplied, a City must trace supply to another City. This means isolating
and starving cities is a more effective tactic and positions anchored by a City
are not as secure.